梭织





Disambig gray.svg  “织物”重定向至此。

参见：织机



引纬器（梭子）


梭织（英语：Weaving）指将纱线经纬交错织成布料的方法。


织物（英语：Woven fabric），指通過经线与纬线交错织成的材料，如布、絲綢等，又合稱為布。在某些场合下，“梭织品”甚至包括了用梭织制作的其他产品，比如窗帘、抹布、毛巾等等。


梭织一般要经过开口、投梭、打纬三道操作工序。[1]



  • 开口（英语：Shedding）：将从经轴上引出的经纱,按要求穿入综框上的综丝.开口时,按要求将不同的综框进行升降运动,使经纱分成上、下两层,两层纱层之间的空间称为梭口,便于引纬.

  • 投梭/引纬（英语：Picking）：通过各种引纬方式(有梭或者无梭)将纬纱引入梭口,使纬纱从布边的


一侧,横向穿过以开口的经纱层到达布边的另一侧,完成引纬运动. 有梭织机使用梭子作为引纬部件,它在打梭机构的作用下,沿织机横向做往复运动,将纬纱引入梭口.而无梭织机利用往复运动和杆件(如:剑杆)、喷射的气流或水流等方法将纬纱引入梭口.


  • 打纬（英语：Beating-up）：钢筘向前摆动,推动新穿入的纬纱至织口,使纬纱均匀排列.织造紧密的织物时,为使纬纱横向排列紧密,可以多次摆动钢筘（一般是两次或三次）,反复将纬纱打密实,完成多次打纬运动.

此外，如果织造要连续进行，还有两个必不可少的辅助步骤，即：送经和卷取。



  • 送经（英语：Warp control）：经纱是整经后在经轴上整齐卷绕的纱线。随着织造的进行,经轴由机构传动退解（退绕）或由经纱张力拖动退解,从而送出经纱。随着织物向前牵引,送经运动送出所需长度的经纱,并且使经纱具有一定的张力,使交织得以进行。

  • 卷取（英语：Cloth control）：卷取机构将织物牵引离开织口，在卷布辊上卷成圆柱状的布卷。每次交织牵引的长度,决定了织物的纬向密度。牵引速度快,纬纱排列稀疏,纬向密度小；反之,牵引速度慢,纬纱排列紧密,纬向密度大。


经纱是由沿织物长度方向平行排列的多根纱组成的，通过经轴引出，通过经纱的交错开口运动，引入纬纱，交织成织物。经纱的数量（根数的多少）决定了织物的幅宽。纬纱是沿织物宽度方向排列的纱线，它交织于经纱之中，形成织物。经纱交错开口时，通过引纬机构将纬纱横穿在经纱的开口处。纬纱的穿入称为“引纬”，可以通过有梭引纬（使用梭子）和无梭引纬（利用气流、水流、片梭、剑杆等）将纬纱横穿于整幅布面，并利用打纬装置使其排列紧密。


匹长表示一坯布的长度，是确定整经长度的重要参考指标。通常是以若干倍的匹长作为参考值进行整经工艺设计的。匹长是以米为单位的织造时设定的每匹布的长度为公称匹长。通常每匹布的公称长度为 27～40 米。厚织物以 2～3联匹为一段，中厚织物以 3～4联匹为一段，薄织物以 4～6联匹为一段。


织物品种表示，通常是按照经纱和纬纱的细度、经向和纬向密度、幅宽、名称的顺序，即：


经纱细度×纬纱细度 经密×纬密 幅宽 名称

如：6tex×2×10tex 472根/10cm×393.5根/10cm 140.9cm 细平布
含义：经纱为 6tex双股线，纬纱为 10tex单纱，经纱密度为 472根/10cm，纬纱密度 393.5根/10cm，幅宽为 140.9cm的细平布


织物的组织结构:



  • 平纹组织:由经纱和纬纱按一上一下规律交织而成的组织。

  • 斜纹组织:经组织点（或纬组织点）连续成斜线的组织

  • 缎纹组织: 单独的、互不连续的经组织点（或纬组织点）在组织循环中有规律的均匀分布的组织



參見


  • 布


参考文献




  1. ^ Fabric Weaving Process. PandaSilk. TEXTILE KNOWLEDGE. 2017-02-21 [2017-11-06]. 


  • 《中华人民共和国国家标准本色棉布 GB407—78》



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